The War in the Desert: Libya

From Tripoli to Tobruk

Libya is a country of contrasts at the crossroads of peoples and culture. Throughout time empires have clashed upon its soil and left their marks, no more so than the bitter struggles between the Axis powers and the 8th Army during the Second World War. But way before then the Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Islam all contributed to this nation's rich cultural heritage.

And so we offer a cultural and Western desert battlefield tour of balance. A Tobruk battlefield tour that examines the dogged fighting from 1941 to 1942, driving deep in to the harsh desert, where the many remains of Western desert battlefields are still evident, and exploring the many defences around Tobruk. A historical tour that delves in to the surprisingly green countryside of Cyrenaica where the Greeks built their first distant settlements at Cyrene and Apollonia. A Western desert tour that indulges in that most magnificent of Roman remains, Leptis Magna the glory of Tripolitania.

Depending upon the final schedule of events we may decide to switch the order of the forecast itinerary.

"Corridor to Tobruk clear and secure. Tobruk is as relieved as I am".

General Goodwin-Austin


Day 1.

Fly from London to Tripoli and check into our hotel for one night. Enjoy a short walking tour of Tripoli including Green Square, the Red Fort, the arch of Marcus Aurelius and the Medina.

Day 2.

We spend a full day exploring the magnificent Roman remains that are Leptis Magna, probably the most extraordinary ancient site in the Mediterranean with its fine triumphal arch, huge baths and imperial forum to mention just a few of the splendours of Leptis Magna. For centuries, the desert sands preserved this splendid world heritage site of Leptis Magna , which was only re-discovered by 20th century archeologists.

Day 3.

A long travelling day. Fly Tripoli to Benghazi and then travel by coach through the verdant Jabal Akhdar direct to Al Bardia, our base for the next three nights. This brand new hotel opened in July 2009 and is situated right on the coast.

Day 4.

Today we drive out to the desert to examine Operation Crusader and Rommel's Gazala offensive which led to the relief and the fall of Tobruk in 1941 and 1942 respectively. In a convoy of 4x4s we will see where the Allies received a bloody nose at Sidi Rezegh and Bir el Gubi, before continuing to the southern most 'box' of the Gazala Line at Bir Hachiem where we will have a desert picnic amongst the much evident remains of that valiant defence by the Free French. Carefully picking our way northwards long the line through the still dangerous minefields we will visit the Knightsbridge box and end our day within the confines of the Acroma cemetery.

"Tobruk! It was a wonderful battle".

Field Marshall Irwin Rommel

Day 5.

A full day Tobruk tour, exploring in and around Tobruk city and harbour. We examine Tobruk's perimeter defences, Fig Tree hospital, and the CWCG, French and German cemeteries, the latter with magnificent views over Tobruk harbour. We go on to tour the North Point Defences, harbour and central Tobruk including the military museum and Rommel's headquarters. Depending upon our return from our Tobruk tour, we also take the opportunity to drive towards the Egyptian border to visit the remnants of Fort Capuzzo and catch a glimpse of the Halfaya Pass.

Day 6.

Today is a long classically orientated day including a visit to Cyrene. Our journey west climbs the Derna Pass and follows the coastal route westwards as did the opposing forces and countless convoys throughout the western desert campaign. Spectacularly situated on cliffs above the sea we visit the Byzantine basilica at Lathroun (Al Atrun) with its gleaming white columns and troglodyte dwellings (or tombs?). Then it's on to the gem of Cyrenaica, the beautifully positioned Cyrene itself. Here we will stand in awe of the massive temple of Zeus, the dramatic Ptolemaion - as large as Leptis Magna's Imperial Forum, and the sanctuary of Apollo.

Day 7.

This morning we find ourselves amongst the remains of Cyrene's harbour, Apollonia, around which we take a leisurely tour before departing for Benghazi where we have a short sight-seeing tour prior to boarding our late afternoon return flight to Tripoli.

Day 8.

There is an opportunity for some last minute shopping in the Medina, a visit to the Jamahiriya museum or drive out to the Tripoli CWGC cemetery before checking in for our mid-afternoon return flight to London.